CINQUE TERRE AND THE RIVIERA DI LEVANTE. WALKS

The Mediterranean coast between Nizza (Nice) and La Spezia, the ‘Riviera’, was the birthplace of modern tourism in the early 1800s. The beauty of the landscape, the unspoilt and colourful old towns by the sea, the mild climate and the abundant subtropical vegetation attracted the upper classes who could afford the luxury of a leisurely stay in the warmth of the south. These wealthy people spent their days gambling in the casinos; hiking along stony mule trails or swimming in salt water was definitely not what a break in the Med was all about!

But over the last 30 years the eastern part of the area, the Riviera di Levante between Genoa and La Spezia, has become a much-loved hiking: the colourful houses of the five villages, nestled against steep terraced slopes above the blue sea and still connected by old cobbled mule trails, take the visitor back to the days when the Italian coast was still unspoilt by modern civilisation. That’s why this small area has been designated as an Italian national park and a UNESCO world heritage site.

Further inland, the sparsely inhabited Apennines, which cross the whole Italian Peninsula from Liguria to Calabria, offer up a totally different landscape — a remote area of high pastures, mixed forests and barren ridges. This area has plenty of hiking trails, but it does not satisfy the expectations of visitors seeking the charm of the Mediterranean. That’s why foreign visitors tend to ignore this hinterland — and why nearly all the walks in this book keep to the coast.

This is a walking guide: while ‘Landscapes’ guides normally feature car touring and picnicking sections, the Riviera di Levante does not lend itself to touring by car. The towns and villages are so tightly packed that parking is a major problem — especially in the Cinque Terre. And since most of the trails are linear, the walks require access by public transport in any case. Visitors out for a stroll can use Sunflower’s detailed maps to find the best spots for picnicking in a gorgeous setting.

Area covered: The book covers the whole Riviera di Levante, from the Magra River and La Spezia in the south, via the Cinque Terre and Portofino Peninsula, to Genoa in the north. Most of the walks are by the coast, since that’s where almost all visitors want to holiday, but there are a few hikes in the isolated interior.

The best months for walking in this part of Italy are April to mid-June and mid-September to the end of October, but because of the mild climate, hiking can be pleasant all year round, especially if one sticks close the the coast in winter.

35 long and short walks; no car tours or specific picnic suggestions
136 pages + area map; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
1st edition, May 2014; ISBN 978-1-85691-452-9; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Getting there and getting about 8
Public transport 10

Walking 11
Maps and waymarks 11
When to walk 12
Equipment 12
A country code for walkers 13
Walk descriptions, grading 14

CINQUE TERRE: a walkers’ paradise 15
Getting about 18
Walk planning 19
Accommodation 19
Walk 1: From Monterosso to Riomaggiore 21
Walk 2: From Monterosso Colla di Gritta to Levanto 24
Walk 3: From Monterosso to Vernazza via Soviore 27
Walk 4: From Corniglia to Manarola via Volastra 30
Walk 5: From Riomaggiore to Portovenere 33
Walk 6: Circuit near Biassa and Campiglia 36
Walk 7: From San Benedetto to Manarola 39

LA SPEZIA BAY: Gulf of Poets 43
Getting about 45
Walk planning 46
Accommodation 46
Walk 8: Isola Palmaria 47
Walk 9: From San Terenzo to Tellaro via Lerici 50
Walk 10: From Tellaro to Lerici via Ameglia 54
Walk 11: From Tellaro to Montemarcello 57

THE LITTLE CINQUE TERRE: from Levanto to Moneglia 62
Getting about 64
Walk planning 64
Accommodation 64
Walk 12: From Lizza to Bonassola via Monte Rossola 66
Walk 13: From Framura railway station to Bonassola 70
Walk 14: From Deiva Marina to Framura Beach 73
Walk 15: From Moneglia to Deiva Marina via Monte Incisa 76
Walk 16: From Riva Trigoso to Moneglia 79

THE TIGULLIO GULF: lively towns, barren ridges 81
Getting about 83
Walk planning 84
Accommodation 84
Walk 17: From Riva Trigoso to Sestri Levante 85
Walk 18: Circuit from Sestri Levante 87
Walk 19: From Belvedere di Pratosopralacroce to Gramizza 92
Walk 20: From Madonna di Montallegro to Zoagli 96
Walk 21: From Ruta to Monte Manico del Lume and Sant’ Andrea di Foggia 100

THE PORTOFINO PENINSULA: a gem of nature 104
Getting about 106
Walk planning 106
Accommodation 106
Walk 22: From San Lorenzo della Costa to Portofino 107
Walk 23: From Santa Margherita Ligure to San Fruttuoso 111
Walk 24: From Camogli to San Fruttuoso 114
Walk 25: From San Fruttuoso to Punta Chiappa or Camogli 117

GENOA: the changing metropolis 120
Getting about 123
Walk planning 123
Accommodation 124
Walk 26: From Traso Alto to Recco 125
Walk 27: From Granarolo to Cami via the Parco della Mura 131