SANDSTONE. CLIMBING IN SOUTH EAST ENGLAND

SANDSTONE - SOUTH EAST ENGLAND

This book includes all the worthwhile rock climbing in the South East of England. There are 9 important areas included in the book, that have groups of rocks which form small outcrops and give fine climbing. The Weald is an undulating area of Sandstone that is sandwiched between the North and South Chalk downs. At Hastings on the coast, the rock is soft - too soft. Between Tunbridge Wells and East Grinstead, the Sandstone is exposed on the surface and has weathered to form a hard crust that supports a small amount of weight. Even here, one has to be thoughtful and careful with protecting the rock - and climbing whilst the rock is wet (and consequently weak), is not allowed.

IDYLLIC COUNTRYSIDE

The rock has been weathered naturally by the wind and rain, forming superb looking buttresses and pinnacles. They are tiny compared to the giant towers of Saxony, but still give a magical feel - intermixed with fine oak and beech trees, plus the lovely bluebell woods in spring.

FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE

Because of the rock is so soft, natural climbing gear protection has been banned. If the skin of the rock wears away, then the substructure collapses instantly. Bolts have been placed at the top of the cliffs for top roping. Because of this, you often get climbers grouping together and hence a chatty convivial atmosphere develops.

TRICKY ROUTES

The rock is very rounded, and gives sloping holds - quite different to that of an indoor climbing wall. There are not so many holds either, and the friction in general is poor - compared to Northern Gritstone. This makes life quite difficult for the beginner. However, once the apprentiship is completed and the local techniques learnt, you will be able to unlock even the trickiest of routes.

LONG SEASON

The weather does play an important part here. If the rock is wet, then it is soft and will break - so please do not climb in these conditions. The rock remains in good condition from mid March through till the end of October. You can sneak good winter days, but green algae does grow, and only some parts dry out fully.

GETTING A GUIDEBOOK

Either buy one from your local climbing shop or on the web, or visit the local climbing wall called Evolution - at Lye Green, just SW of Groombridge. Pubs of The Junction in Groombridge and High Rocks also sell copies.

COLOUR TOPOS

All of the photo topos are in full colour and include the latest in clean grahic design techniquies. The grades are clear and easy to use, plus routes are colour coded in the same advancing colours as skiing & Fontainebleau.